In this interview, Mark Foo discusses his philosophy of life as a former pro surfer who later went on to become a big-wave rider at Waimea Bay. There are some great shots of his wave riding interspersed throughout the clip. Mark died in 1994, during a surf session at Mavericks.
Waimea Bay is one of the legendary big-wave surf spots, dating back to the late 1950’s, when it was first surfed by the likes of Greg Noll and Mickey Munoz. They attempted to make the elevator drop on wooden planks that weighed upwards of 35-40 pounds each. With the advent of surfboards made out of foam instead of wood, the performance level at Waimea Bay rose considerably. The first surfing contest ever held there was the Smirnoff Pro in 1974, which was won by Reno Abellira, who put on an epic performance during a huge swell. The surfing video that you see here is of far more recent vintage.
Surfers getting tubed at the rivermouth in Rodiles, Spain. This surf break is 240 kilometers from Mundaka, the famous rivermouth surfing spot in Spain.